The Inkey List PHA Toner Review

White opaque black and white The Inkey List PHA Toner bottle sat on bathroom mirror-side, adjacent to pile of reusable cotton pads.

Today it's all about toner and that toner in mind is The Inkey List PHA Toner, which I used a little while ago now. Over the last year I made the decision to be brave and start incorporating acids into my skincare routine. Starting off my journey into acids in skincare, I went for a gentle introduction for my skin and chose the aptly appropriate Inkey List PHA Toner to try, with aims of banishing some of my blackheads and making a start on sorting out my post-hormonal-contraception-era acne out. Marketed as a gentle chemical exfoliant for sensitive skin, I thought it was the best place to start seen as I haven't really used many chemical exfoliants in my skincare before (or at least knew I was using them and more to the point, if I was using them correctly!). Here's how I found it performed for me and my acne prone, somewhat sensitive skin.

What is it and it's aim to do?

So the PHA Toner, standing for polyhydroxy acid, is focused around a gentle chemical exfoliator, the polyhydroxy acid, which according to The Inkey List's website also works as a humectant, a substance that locks in moisture. So it offers a gentle acidic exfoliation whilst still preserving your skin's moisture barrier, with added soothing and moisture preserving ingredients like aloe and niacinamide... according to their website. Already it's going a little over my head! Nonetheless, it's basically a nice entry-level chemical exfoliator, suitable for sensitive skin. It aims to gently remove dead skin cells from the skin's surface, keeping it pore-clog free, in a non-drying manner.

Scent and texture?

So, as noted it has been a little while since I tried this out - can you tell I've been catching up on posts recently. From what I remember it's a colourless and thin, watery substance, with no scent to it. Great if you're scent sensitive! 

How much you need to use?

Now because it's quite a thin watery formula I found I needed to be a little more generous with my cotton pad soaking and found it absorbed into my reusable cotton pads quite eagerly. I'd probably say I used a little more of this than I would my average toner when dishing out on my cotton pad pre-application.

White and black Inkey List PHA Toner bottle lay down on bathroom mirror-side, resting on pile of cotton pads.

How I apply it?

As noted, I stuck to applying this with a cotton pad, post-cleansing, as I just feel like with the aim of it being to remove dead skin cells it makes more sense to wipe away than pat something into the skin when you're in "essence" trying to remove something for your skin. For dead skin cells and all other manner of whatnot on your face you don't want clogging up your pores, I feel like instant unwanted-face-particle -matter evaporation on application would be a little to chemically wild to be true. 

In short, cottons pads.

How it feels on the skin?

As it was quite eager absorbing into my reusable cotton pads I found it was slightly on the drier side to apply - in otherwords, not drenching. It was nice and light though and not overwhelming and although I did feel the moisture-preserving barrier effects of the ingredients it didn't feel super juicy or like it left a noticeable layer on my skin. I guess that could be weighed up in good or bad depending on what you like. For me, I do prefer products that give a juicy boost of lipid-y nourishment but that wasn't the intended purpose of this product and it didn't do the opposite and dry my face out so I was pretty happy with how it felt on application.

Short-term effects?

Okay, so down to the nitty gritty and what you've probably come here to find out... how well did it work? Well, in regard to the short-term effects, I found it quite hard to recognise a noticeable difference in my complexion when using the PHA Toner. Although it didn't do any bad I didn't really notice any noticeable differences to my skin in the interim while I was using it.

Long-term effects?

Now long term-wise I don't recall any really drastic changes. My blackheads and post-hormonal-contraceptive acne didn't seem to have a massive resolution, well maybe slightly on the acne to be fair but not the blackheads. In hindsight though, I feel it's actually unfair to grade this toner on its blackhead banishing power as it's not really designed for that. It is more of a gentle acidic toner to add to your overall exfoliation powers in your skincare. So although now drastic blackhead banishing I wouldn't mark the PHA Toner down on this. What I did love about it was how effectively it performed per se to what it said on the tin. Although subtle, I didn't feel a could notice a little clearance and dullness banishing to my skin through the period I was using the PHA Toner. Whilst it had a subtle but gently noticeable little boost to my complexion, with what I felt was a light improvement in my acne, it didn't strip or dry out my skin and it did leave a nicely nourished barrier, that wasn't too much or too oily. Again, I'm a sucker for a juicy, nourishing skincare product but I know that's not everyone's cup of tea, especially so. maybe if you're more on the oily side, so I think this would be a big hit for what I feel a wide portion of the complexion community. The sensitive but not too-heavy-a-product loving community. In essence it did make a really subtle difference to my skin in the long-term offer using for the month or two it lasted but for an acid-based skincare product I'd rather go in for something with a more robust effect on my troublesome skin complaints and steer towards a more moisturising toner. As an introduction to exfoliating acids though and for sensitive skinned folk I think this is wonderfully perfect though and well worth a try!

Distant ariel view of black and white Inkey List PHA Toner bottle sat on bathroom mirror-side with cotton pads next to it.

How long does the product last + price and value for money?

As noted above, I think the small 100ml toner lasted me between one to two months. In my experience of toners purchased I'd say it's a little on the smaller size but for the price (I think under £10 that I can recall) at tie of purchase this wasn't too bad. Having a quick glance at the price here at the time of writing thought to refresh my memory I'm amazed I think it's gone up quite a bit (£11.49 full price on the Boots website!). As with all things - and I'm trying not to focus on too much here because this is a happy place - the cost of everything is going up. I wouldn't say it's as much of a bargain that sits as well with the mls of the product that it was but it's certainly not bad... and it is currently on offer for £8.62 on the Boots website right now!

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All in all I think this has actually been the perfect gentle introduction to acids in my skincare routine. Whether you're new to the acidic skincare world or are one with more sensitive skin I think this could be your perfect product to branch you in to the world of chemical exfoliants and magic skin workers. In respect to what it says on the tin I'd say 10/10 - it really does do exactly as it says. It's not a super intense fix all so if you're looking for a clinical grade super acid product then this isn't going to achieve that but if life me you're venturing into incorporating acids into your skincare routine, or look for things on the gentler side, this is one I think you'll love. Price-wise and taking into account recent price changes, I don't think it's the most bargain toner out there but I still feel like The Inkey List and The Ordinary are the leading affordable skincare brands that take a no messing approach to skincare that genuinely works and properly targets need. It's certainly one to try.

For now I'm sticking with my Body Shop Aloe Toner, just to add a little reliable calmness and juiciness to the skin while I'm testing some other products but I think The Inkey List PHA may be one I steer to and try again sometime.

Well all this with all this uploading is very exciting isn't it!? I'm loving being back to my happy place. And if you're loving the influx of posts back again too they'll be more where that came from so keep you eyes a peeled for my next blog post!

Ellie x

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